How to use Prahok - Cambodian Fish Paste

The Smelly, Salty Condiment, Prahok, is Vital to Cambodian Cuisine

Feb 27, 2009

Cambodian food is fast gaining overseas fans, but few foreigners yet appreciate one of its most prized ingredients - the pungent fermented fish paste called prahok

Cambodian cuisine's magic is in its subtle blending of spices and flavors rather than chili heat - something which sets it apart from many other styles in Southeast Asia and has won it legions of fans.

Khmer food was tipped to become the 'next big thing' by prestigious foodie guide Epicurious two years ago in its New Year prediction guide for 2007, although a lack of good Khmer restaurants overseas still keeps many from discovering the true joys of this unique cooking style.

But despite growing recognition, one of Khmer cooking's main ingredients, the fermented fish paste known as prahok (often called fish cheese in English) is certainly an acquired taste. Grey to brown in color, made from tiny fish pounded into a salted mush manually underfoot before being preserved and fermented, prahok even makes some Cambodians wince in its raw form.

The wonder, however unbelievable it may seem when someone new to the condiment first opens the jar, is in how it melds with and lifts other flavors once in a dish.

In the early months of the year, thousands of Cambodians gather by the kingdom's main waterways, hauling in net loads of tiny silver fish called riel. It may sound offputting, but for Cambodians, prahok is as much a part of their culture, and certainly their cooking, as the ancient Angkor Wat temple.

In fact, the Cambodian currency is named for the little fish vital to the manufacture of prahok, and few self-respecting traditional households would be without it. Like many ingredients in Asian cookery such as fish sauce or raw black beans, it may initally seem repugnant, but once incorporated into the symphony of a dish, it creates a harmony which is irreplaceable and quite unlike the original article.

A Little Prahok Goes a Long Way

Prahok is sometimes served raw as a dipping sauce for fresh vegetables or grilled beef, but it is more often found as an ingredient in some of the nation's most classic dishes. There are similar creations to prahok in the world, but nothing is exactly like it.

Even Khmers, who consider it a national treasure, sometimes object to its strong flavor (and odor) raw, but this surprising condiment has the ability to take on many different personalities once in a recipe.

Chefs say it adds a body and a presence to a dish which is hard to describe without experiencing it, and despite its strong odor prior to cooking, once incorporated into the intricate flavor structure of Khmer cuisine, it carries flavors rather than overpowers them.

There's No Substitute for Genuine Prahok

Expert chefs in Cambodian dishes such Longteine de Monteiro of The Elephant Walk restaurant say although anchovy or other varieties of Asian fish pastes might be used instead of prahok, there is no real substitute and anyway, prahok is available wherever there are Asian food stores.

When buying prahok, look for a paste which is all meat with no bones or other impurities such as peanuts, and try to find prahok labeled as in "Siem Reap style" – perhaps the most prized of all prahoks. Always choose a brand bottled in glass to see what you are getting and remember – prahok does not need refrigeration and a little will last a long time.

Classic Khmer Cooking

This is a simple version of Prahok K'tis, a classic Cambodian dip served with rice and an array of fresh vegetables. More elaborate versions require a kroeung, or a spice mixture ground to a paste in a mortar and pestle, but this is a good beginner's version.

Recipe – Prahok K'tis (Dip)

Ingredients:

Preparation:

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