Nepal, tucked between Tibet, Bhutan and India, offers a unique dining experience for the hungry traveller.
Look north of India and south of Tibet and you'll uncover a complex little country of about 30 million with more than 90 ethnic minorities and 70 languages spoken.
Nepal is a wondrous mix of peoples and beliefs, a majority of whom practice Hinduism with a large sprinkling of Buddhism as well as some Muslim and Sikh adherents thrown in.
Known as the "Rooftop of the World," it has served host to countless international trekkers and mountain climbers seeking to conquer Everest and other assorted peaks.
But first, you must land in the traffic-choked capital, Kathmandu, with its myriad of restaurants and incredible array of foods from around the world. One journalist told me he had the best pizza there! Actually, Fire and Ice is well-known for its thin-crust concoctions. As well, you can easily find Chinese food, Japanese (may I recommend Momo Tarou in Thamel for those hankering for a taste), Korean, Israeli, French and of course, Indian.
Instead, I prefer to focus on what counts as Nepali food – recognizable as a blend of Indian and Tibetan, in a way.
Other lightly-spiced dishes to try include: Asian BBQ Ribs, Party Potluck Noodles, Lemongrass Chicken, Tandoori Chicken, Caribbean-Inspired Meals, and Persian Chicken Dishes.
Restaurant in 19th CenturyBuilding
The gorgeous Thamel House Restaurant provides a terrific dining experience in a restored 19th century, timbered Newari building. Newars, who number more than 1 million, are from the Kathmandu Valley. Known for being farmers, merchants and artists, they are the most dominant group you'll encounter in the capital.
My Nepali friend and I opted for the full course non-vegetarian meal (there is a vegetarian option) which cost a paltry 650 Rs (rupees), the equivalent of $10.
For that, we got an all-you-can eat tasting menu with 13 dishes including a very strong local eau-de-vie and tea or coffee.
It begins with roasted soya beans and then some mo mos – a Tibetan dumpling which is either stuffed with veggies or buffalo meat.
After that, you're handed one of those giant steel Thali platters supporting small nation-states of food.
There is some tasty fried potato (initially, I believe, soaked in chicken broth) and then plain basmati rice.
Wild boar bucks the senses
Off on the ringside are Suruwa (mutton, chicken and vegetable simmered into a thick soup), some dal (lentils) and a thick gravy-like lamb dish called Khasi Ko Ledo. There's also some grilled chicken and mixed vegetables.
Most exceptional for me was the spicy wild boar (Bandhel Tareko), which is boiled and then sautéed in spices (most likely some mustard seed, coriander, cumin etc….), absolutely delicious. It was crispy on the outside and juicy when I bit in. I only wish I could have eaten more.
Other side dishes include Achar (home made pickles), Saag (fresh greens cooked in spices) and Shikarni – a "national yoghurt" dish which is whipped with cashews, almond and cinnamon. I found this to be a divine discovery as well.
Sitting in the rooftop of the restaurant, cross-legged, in the Rooftop of the World was a magical experience. Namaste!
Thamel House Restaurant, Kathmandu. Thamel Tole. Tel: 00977-01-4410388
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